Day begins in Acapulco when the sun splashes everything with color — igniting greens and fiery purples, the blue bay, the pink clouds. No matter how late you went to bed, you always awake with that first brilliant touch of day.
In one of the top-floor hotel suites, the sudden rush of light wakes a tall, tawny-haired blonde who gets out of bed in a single movement, a graceful tangle of long and well-tanned arms and legs. Because her balcony is one that assures privacy, she pads outside wearing nothing but a good night’s sleep. Then she lets out a shriek.
Swooshing past her balcony is a man dangling like a Raggedy Ann doll from the harness of a huge red-and-white-striped parachute pulled by a rope attached to a speedboat. The man smiles broadly. The girl runs inside.
— The ancient Babylon of North American resorts, Acapulco got its start as a major tourist destination during the early days of World War II. The threat of German U-boats off the eastern United States forced wealthy vacationers to find new places to play.
It was once said that you had to be a millionaire to enjoy Acapulco, but that’s no longer the case. The playground for millionaires has long since become the playground for millions. Yet having a few bucks never hurts.
The local gentry live more or less exclusive private lives tucked away in the stately villas that line the nooks and palm-groved crannies of the Las Brisas hills. Their homes sit at the end of long, winding roadways or hang off the sides of cliffs. That’s so nobody can find them.
The elegant villas all look pretty much alike — open and airy with Spanish arches, broad patios, terraces, doorways without doors, windows without glass. All face away from the afternoon sun, a cooling factor that allows sunsets to be observed in quiet meditation and genuine awe from the dining terrace at cocktail time.
Among Acapulco’s many other splendid sights is the 15-story Acapulco Princess, shaped like an Aztec pyramid, with two adjoining towers added since its opening two decades ago. Howard Hughes spent his last days sequestered there in total luxury. Next door is the Hotel Pierre Marques. It was originally owned by John Paul Getty, who spent all of his days elsewhere. He never laid eyes on the property.
Acapulco offers much to see and do amid the glitter — jungle hunts and bullfights, Fort San Diego (a restored 18th-century Spanish fortress, now a museum and occasionally the site of large open-air parties), an amusement park, fishing and boat tours. Yachts such as the Fiesta and the Aca Tiki, with pirates in costume marauding about the deck (cutlasses in hand) offer cruises around the harbor, with drinks and dinner usually included.
— The best place to watch the famous La Quebrada cliff divers is from the promenade across from the gorge where crowds begin to gather hours before each performance. (Dives are held daily at 12:30 and again at 10:30 p.m.). A more comfortable, but more expensive, vantage point is the tiered dining terrace of La Perla nightclub, located in a hotel adjacent to the cliffs.
The 150-foot dive, a feat comparable to plunging from the roof of a 15-story building, is made even more perilous by the forward slant of the cliffs. A diver has to propel himself out far enough to clear the masses of jagged rocks on the way down. Split-second timing is required because the chasm is only 12 feet deep. A successful dive can only be made into the full swell of an incoming surge of sea. There’s no charge for watching, but after the dives, a hat is passed.
Twenty-eight divers, ages 17 to 34, participate in the spectacle, alternating in groups of seven to 10 each day. Originally only one large family took part, passing the art on to maturing youngsters, but now outsiders are accepted into the elite group. Local boys first began the sport by daring one another to dive off ever-higher points of the cliff.
For shopping, serious purchases might best be made elsewhere in Mexico. Acapulco does, however, offer a good range of resort and sportswear. ACAjoe’s originated in Acapulco and can now be found in resorts worldwide.
Acapulco is one of those fashionable places where millionaires dress like peasants and peasants try hard to look like millionaires. Anything goes, as long as it’s chic, casual and an off-shade of white. At night, short sleeves for men is as gauche as wearing socks.
One of the fabled rich (who never learned Spanish because he didn’t want to have to make small talk with the servants) is the darling of the dance floor with his tight white pants and the plastic vibrator he likes to insert in his front pants pocket. While dancing with some unsuspecting lady, he’ll snuggle up close and then turn on the vibrator. The startled partner either backs off in horror or pretends not to notice.
It’s rumored that Acapulco has lost its position as the queen of Mexican resorts, that Cancun is now more fashionable, or even Puerto Vallarta or Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. But don’t you believe it.
—- Ron Butler is a free-lance writer who lives in Tucson, Ariz.
IF YOU GO
— Getting there: You can fly to Acapulco from Mexico City, Dallas or Houston.
— Lodging: Acapulco has dozens of fabulous hotels, but for true Acapulco buffs, there are only two (excluding the Princess, of course):
Villa Vera: This hillside sweep of white stucco villas remains a symbol of the past, of an Acapulco drenched in wealth and decadence. Even today, no guest at the Villa Vera speaks to another without first being properly introduced. Bridget Bardot and Gunther Sachs were married here; so were Liz Taylor and Mike Todd.
Nothing’s changed. Fountains and statuary, terraced gardens and shaded walkways adorn the public areas. Many of the suites at the Villa Vera have private swimming pools with stepping stones strategically placed so you can tiptoe across in the moonlight.
The main pool, with one of the world’s most spectacular bays sparkling down below, was the very first to have sunken barstools. Bathers can imbibe without neglecting their tans. Royal blue and white canopies shade poolside lounges. Nobody ever belly-flops into the water. (Villa Vera, Lomas del Mar, Acapulco, Gro., Mexico (tel. 4-03-33). Until Dec. 15, room rates per double range from $125 for a room to $425 for a villa. Add 15 percent sales tax and 10 percent gratuity. For toll-free reservations, call 1-800-223-6510.)
Las Brisas: Las Brisas begins along a spectacular sweep of white sand beach and then climbs lazily up the Las Brisas hillside in a honeycomb of 300 pink and white bungalows, pools, terraces and an assortment of attractive shops and public rooms. Tangles of tropical vines and flowers are everywhere.
Built into the natural contours of the steep hillside, the 250 swimming pools assure that just about everyone has his or her own private pool to splash about in. Fresh flowers brighten the rooms each day and a complimentary deluxe continental breakfast is slipped through a special trap door passage each morning so that even the waiters don’t intrude.
The centerpiece of Acapulco’s most fabled stretch of real estate, Las Brisas is also known for its fleet of pink and white Jeeps that guests may rent for shopping excursions, disco hopping or expeditions into the countryside. (Las Brisas is at Carretera 5255, Acapulco, Gro., Mexico, tel. 4-16-50. Doubles with private pools begin at $125 and climb — literally, the higher the room the higher the price — to $425. Toll-free reservations through Westin Hotels: 1-800-228-3000.)
— Dining: Tlaquepaque (Calle Uno, Lote 7, Colonia Vista Alegre), off the beaten path, but only about 15 minutes from anywhere.
Its name comes from the tiny arts and crafts village outside of Guadalajara where chef/owner Jose Arreola comes from. Cuisine ranges from the exotic — armadillo — to the timeless — chiles rellenos. Nothing fancy, but inexpensive and atmospheric.
At Coyuca 22 (Ave. Coyuca 22), Grecian columns are silhouetted against the sky on a terraced hilltop in the old section of Acapulco. This is easily one of the most beautiful, and most expensive, restaurants in Mexico. Perfect for that special occasion. Lobster broiled in champagne is the house specialty.
Madeiras (Carretera Escenica 39), a romantic restaurant overlooking the bay, is a favorite of the “in” crowd. The menu is continental, with strong French accents. The serving plates are solid silver. Expensive.
Miramar (Carretera Escenica), like Madeiras, offers French cuisine and gorgeous views. Chateaubriand and coq au vin. Expensive.
— Nightlife: Disco rankings in Acapulco change as fast as the Dow Jones averages on Wall Street, but you can still safely throw your wallet and your hip out of joint at Fantasy, Magic, Boccaccio’s and Cats. The traffic jams inside and out are monumental.
— Information: Contact the Mexican Government Tourist Office, 405 Park Ave., New York, N.Y. 10022; 1-212-755-7261.
— RON BUTLER
