BEEF ‘O’BRADY’S/PARKLAND

The sign on the window at Beef ‘O’Brady’s Family Sports Pub tells you what you need to know about this chain with more than 200 locations across America: “Kids eat free on Tuesdays from 4-8 p.m.”

That should equip you with enough information to make a decision: a) jump on the bandwagon with your kids, or b) head someplace else if you like to unwind over a meal in peace and quiet.

If “a” sounds right up your alley, keep in mind that it’s designed for the 12 and younger set and each freebie must be accompanied by a regular-priced adult meal. Those are a deal, too, since menu pricing peaks at just $9.49. The place definitely has its share of kids, especially with a well-thought-out under $4 kids’ menu to please young taste buds, though the restaurant also draws singles and seniors.

Besides kid chatter and baby cries, background noise comes from TVs placed in every nook and cranny. It’s all booth seating in the main dining area, with a separate glassed-in dining room situated across from another area housing a small game room. A fat roll of paper towels on each table — next to the ketchup and mustard — is handy for spills and to use as napkins. (Sound like home?)

The bill of fare is all casual food — appetizers, wings, burgers, baskets, sandwiches, soup, wraps, salads and desserts — with some surprisingly good things here and there.

Take the quesadilla for starters, which is exactly where you’ll find it on the menu. It’s hearty enough for a meal, and at $6.99, there’s nothing to complain about. Not that you’d want to when you bite into a crisp flour tortilla crammed with big chunks of moist, flavorful grilled chicken and molten cheese. If you like wings, the ones here are big, meaty and slicked with heavy saucing. Orders start at 10 for $6.79, with increasing increments available. The kitchen accommodates by letting you pick multiple sauces on an order if you like. We liked, so we got half with a terrific Caribbean jerk sauce; half with honey barbecue sauce that we thought needs more barbecue flavor, less honey.

Most burgers are half-pounders, commendably cooked as requested, delivered on fresh corn meal-dusted Kaisers sturdy enough to hold the burger together right down to the last bite. They measure up to good burger standards whether you have one with melted provolone ($7.49) or topped with chili and cheddar/jack cheese ($7.79) and a final crown of battered onion rings. Or, there’s a cheeseburger wrap ($7.29) with American cheese wrapped up all nice and cozy in a warm flour tortilla.

Baskets ($7.99-$8.49), served with freshly cooked curly or straight fries and slaw, range from wings and chicken fingers to fish ‘n’ chips or a shrimp basket that hits the bull’s-eye with nice-size shrimp, light breading and perfect frying so the shrimp are toasty brown, crisp and moist. Salads ($7.29-$8.29), including mandarin chicken, beef taco and fried chicken, can be meal makers, and in the sandwich department, besides wraps, there’s a multitude of choices. A roast beef garlic melt ($7.79), a grilled, blackened or fried white fish fillet ($8.29), a Philly with steak or chicken ($7.29), and a Cuban ($7.29). I know. How authentic can a media noche be in a place called ‘O’Brady’s? This one includes ham, salami (go figure) and Swiss with lettuce and tomato. It’s basically a pressed ham sandwich — not bad, but not a Cuban, either.

Assorted ice cream creations make up most dessert selections, but we went for a strawberry parfait ($4.59), processed strawberries layered with pound cake and one of those mystery cream toppings. We found it dry — not worth the price or calories.

One thing I can compliment is service provided by a team of young people displaying enthusiasm, friendliness and helpfulness. Plus, they make recommendations on food they’ve actually tasted. If the restaurant’s big portions don’t fill you up, the hospitality will.

Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For review consideration, please fax a current menu that includes name and address of restaurant to 954-356-4386 or send to Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293.

If you would like to contact dining correspondent Judith Stocks, e-mail her at judithstocksreviews@yahoo .com or write to her in care of the Sun-Sentinel.

* * * (OUT OF FOUR STARS) Cuisine: American

7363 N. State Road 7, Parkland

954-345-9696

beefobradys.com

Cost: inexpensive

Credit cards: all major

Hours: lunch, dinner daily

Reservations: accepted

Bar: beer, wine

Sound level: noisy

Smoking: prohibited

Children’s facilities: boosters, high chairs

Wheelchair accessible: yes

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