Q. We recently had a wonderful dinner at Max’s Grille Las Olas Riverfront in Fort Lauderdale. We had a side dish of potatoes that was absolutely delicious. It was cubed white and sweet potatoes in an herb sauce. We would love to have this recipe for our family get-togethers. I even think it would taste good cold. — Patricia Kodish, Coral Springs
A. According to executive chef Brian Rutherford and sous chef Mike Dorizas, that delicious side dish Kodish enjoyed at Max’s Grille Las Olas Riverfront, 300 SW First Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-779-1800, is a special called Sweet Potato and Plantain Hash. It is, according to Rutherford, good with either sautM-ied or grilled fish or chicken.
I spoke with Rutherford about two seasonings the recipe requires: jerk seasoning and chili rub. He says they are unique to the restaurant, but gave me a list of ingredients for each.
From those lists, I made up a combination of the ingredients, and the result was very satisfactory. We thoroughly enjoyed the Caribbean flavors.
Though the directions seem lengthy, much of the preparation can be done ahead. The restaurant does make it ahead and reheats the dish to order. This can be done in the microwave. I had some left over and reheated it the following day.
Cherries make simple, tasty ‘borscht’
Q. My mother made the best soup. Have you ever heard of Cherry Borscht? Water and cherries, but for the life of me I don’t remember what else she used or what or where she got this recipe from. Can you help me? — Elayne Russ, Delray Beach
A. Russ’ request puzzled me because borscht (also known as borshch, bortsch or orscht) is the delicious Russian beet soup. But knowing that recipe names can be amusing, even misleading, I checked my files and found a delicious Cherry Soup that has the ingredients Russ mentioned and is the color of borscht.
The original recipe for this soup, which can also be made with blueberries (I tried it, and the blue color was not terribly appetizing), is from The Great Scandinavian Cookbook (Crown, 1967). The book was originally published in Swedish in 1963.
This soup is a simple recipe, but tasty. Serve it warm or cold.
Crustless cheesecake
a one-bowl wonder
Q. I used to have a recipe for cheesecake that made its own crust. Through moving I lost it. I would love to have that recipe again. It is far superior to the soggy graham cracker crusts. — Irene Tremaine, Hollywood
A. About the time I received Tremaine’s request, I was visiting my friend Fran Wool of Sunrise. She is an excellent and innovative cook who served me a most delicious cheesecake. Since it did not have a crust, I asked Wool for the recipe, and she was delighted to share it. She calls it her One-Bowl Cheesecake. As you will see, it is done in one bowl — “No fuss, no bother,” she says.
Wool sent a sample home with me for husband Guy, who declared it one of the best he has eaten in a long, long time. It is a rich dessert, but the addition of the lemon zest and juice cuts the richness and sweetness to a satisfying level.
Cake’s grainy texture goes well with fruit
Q. I have been trying to find a recipe for something called Sand Cake. Years ago a neighbor used to make it and bring us samples. It was quite light and I think had some sort of liqueur in it. My mother used to serve it with fresh fruit, and it was delicious. Do you know of such a cake? — Marguerite Greenberg, Pompano Beach
A. I do know of such a cake. It was named because in the original recipes, one of the ingredients was fine cornmeal, which gave it a slightly grainy texture. Hence the name Sand Cake. However, my favorite recipe for Sand Cake, which we featured in an early issue of the Cuisinart magazine, skips the cornmeal. But it still has a great fine-grained texture making it ideal to serve with any kind of fruit.
Have a cooking question? Trying to track down a long-lost recipe? Send your questions (be sure to include phone number) to You Asked for It, Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293. Sorry, no personal replies.
SIDE DISH
MAX’S GRILLE’S SWEET POTATO AND PLANTAIN HASH
Seasoning Mix:
2 teaspoons firm-packed light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon fresh-ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
1/8 teaspoon dried cumin
1/8 teaspoon blackening spice (we used Chef Paul Prudhomme’s brand)
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed thyme leaves
Pinch salt and fresh-ground black pepper
Sweet Potato and Plantain Hash:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil plus more for frying
1 large white onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 medium poblano pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 pound sweet potatoes (we used two 8-ounce potatoes), baked and cooled
1 pound Idaho potatoes (we used two 8-ounce potatoes), baked and cooled
3 medium-sized ripe plantains
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
To make seasoning: Stir all the ingredients together well in a small bowl. Can be made up to a day ahead.
To make hash: Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. Add the diced onions and peppers; saute 6 to 7 minutes, or until the vegetables begin to caramelize (turn golden). Transfer to a large mixing bowl and stir in the Seasoning Mix. Set aside.
Peel the baked sweet and Idaho potatoes and cut into 1/2-inch dice. Peel the plantains and cut into 1/2-inch dice.
In a large skillet (we used a 10-inch saute pan that is 2 inches deep), place enough vegetable oil to measure 1 inch and heat over medium-high heat. When the oil reaches 350 degrees, fry the plantains 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer to brown paper or paper towels with a slotted spoon to drain.
With the same oil still at 350 degrees, fry the potatoes in batches 5 to 6 minutes, or until golden. Transfer to brown paper bag or paper towels with a slotted spoon to drain, and season immediately with salt and pepper
Add the plantains, potatoes, chopped thyme and parsley to the onion mixture and toss well to combine. Serve warm. Can be reheated easily in the microwave. Makes 6 healthy side-dish servings.
Per serving: 319 calories, 5 grams protein, 3 grams fat, 73 grams carbohydrates, no cholesterol, 60 milligrams sodium, 7 grams total fiber, 8 percent calories from fat.
SOUP
CHERRY (BERRY) SOUP
IF YOU WANT TO CALL IT CHERRY BORSCHT, IT WILL SURPRISE THE DINERS. YOU CAN USE EITHER CHERRIES OR BLUEBERRIES, THOUGH WE FOUND CHERRIES WERE BETTER.
31/2 cups stemmed and pitted pie cherries (3 cups blueberries can be substituted)
4 3/4 cups water
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Dash almond extract or lemon juice
1/4 cup sour cream
Combine the cherries, or blueberries, if using, 4 cups water and sugar in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, or until cherries are soft. Drain the cherries and return the liquid to the saucepan.
Dissolve the cornstarch in cup cold water. Stir into the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is smooth. Add the almond extract or lemon juice and cherries (or blueberries). Serve the soup either warm or cold, topped with a dollop of sour cream. Makes 4 servings.
Per serving: 187 calories, 2 grams protein, 4 grams fat, 38 grams carbohydrates, 6 milligrams cholesterol, 8 milligrams sodium, 3 grams total fiber, 21 percent calories from fat.
DESSERT
FRAN’S ONE-BOWL CHEESECAKE
4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
13/4 cups sugar
11/2 cups (3/4 pint) sour cream
5 large eggs, at room temperature
Grated zest of one lemon (about 11/2 teaspoons)
Juice of one lemon (about 2 tablespoons)
Hot water, to make water bath for baking
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a 10-inch springform pan with heavy duty aluminum foil.*
In a large nonreactive mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients except the water. With an electric mixer on low speed, combine the ingredients. Turn the mixer to medium and beat the mixture 3 to 4 minutes, or until very smooth and creamy. Scrape down the side of the bowl several times.
Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Place the pan in a larger pan. Place the pans on the middle shelf of the oven and pour enough hot water into the larger pan to come half way up the side of the springform pan. Bake 20 minutes or until the top starts to brown. Then reduce the heat to 225 degrees and bake 1 hour. Turn off the oven and let the oven and cheesecake cool completely in it.
Chill thoroughly before slicing and serving. Remove the side of the springform pan and, using the foil, lift the cheesecake off the pan base. Leave the cheesecake in the aluminum foil. Makes 16 servings.
*Fran says to make it easy to line the springform pan, turn the pan over and mold the heavy duty aluminum foil tightly over the outside of the pan. Lift off the foil, turn the pan over and slide the foil inside. Press against the side and bottom to fit tightly.
Per serving: 316 calories, 7 grams protein, 22 grams fat, 25 grams carbohydrates, 156 milligrams cholesterol, 167 milligrams sodium, .02 gram total fiber, 62 percent calories from fat.
DESSERT
SAND CAKE
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup sifted cornstarch or potato starch
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
10 ounces (21/2 sticks) unsalted
butter, at room temperature
11/4 cups sugar
3 large eggs
3 tablespoons cognac or dark rum
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter and flour a 10-inch tube pan. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk well together the flour, starch, baking powder and salt. Transfer to a piece of wax paper.
In the same bowl, cream the butter and sugar on the medium speed of an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the cognac or rum and the dry ingredients.
Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake in the center of the oven 40 to 45 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove the pan to a wire rack to cool 5 minutes.
Cover the rack with wax paper and invert the cake onto it; remove pan and leave cake inverted. Cool completely. Sift confectioners’ sugar lightly over the cake just before serving and lift it onto a serving plate. Makes 12 servings.
Per serving: 362 calories, 4 grams protein, 21 grams fat, 39 grams carbohydrates, 132 milligrams cholesterol, 188 milligrams sodium, .35 gram total fiber, 53 percent calories from fat.
