Q. One of our favorite lunch spots is a Caribbean cafe with a lot of charm and great food. It’s called the Calypso Restaurant and Raw Bar in Pompano Beach. One recipe I’d love to see if the chef would share is his delicious citrus ginger salad dcressing. Is this possible? — Diane Trotta. Boca Raton
A. Co-owners Mike and Jackie O’Neal and Chuck and Lora Ternosky of the Calypso Restaurant and Raw Bar, 460 S. Cypress Road, Pompano Beach, 954-942-1633, are always happy to share recipes. And the one for Citrus Ginger Dressing was faxed in record time.
The only advice I have to give is to make sure your ginger is young and fresh and not the old, woody variety you often find at the supermarket. Otherwise, this is about the most straightforward and easily executed recipe I have done for some time.
You will need a good blender or a food processor to ensure a wonderfully thick and smooth dressing with a gorgeous reddish, orangish color (thanks to the paprika). Not only is it a remarkable lifter-upper for green salads, but we found it just as satisfying with citrus, avocados, papayas and mangoes. We also enjoy it as a dip with raw cauliflower, carrots, celery and broccoli. And if no one is watching, just dip a clean finger in for a taste.
Touch of garlic makes fries a hit
Q. Recently at a ball game in the Giants baseball park in San Francisco, I had their Garlic Fries. They were great. Is there any possible way that you might be able to get the recipe? — George Taylor, Hollywood
A. My column’s culinary territory does not quite stretch to California. However, I can furnish Taylor with an excellent recipe for Garlic Fries, which I learned to make years ago when I did some time in restaurant kitchens.
I learned several tricks that help produce a crisp and tasty fry.
The first is to use only fresh oil. Oil tends to pick up tastes from foods fried in it and if used more than once or twice, the food cooked in it, especially potatoes, can acquire a greasy taste. Peanut oil is my oil of choice.
The second, more a suggestion rather than a trick, is to use potatoes that have a low moisture content such as russets.
The third is to use the two-step method. Several hours before serving the potatoes, deep-fry them for just a minute or two. Drain them well. Then, just before serving, deep-fry them for another minute or two. Then toss them in a large bowl with the garlic-flavored seasonings.
Casserole can be a new experience
Q. Some friends have brought us a huge supply of summer squash, both yellow and green. I have just been blanching them and serving them warm or in tossed salads, but my husband is not excited about my serving any more. Do you have something special you do with summer squash? — Muriel Tolman, Boca Raton
A. I have a tasty Summer Squash Casserole recipe. After you get tired of blanching, sautM-iing or making zucchini bread and muffins, you might try this casserole as a whole new squash experience.
Pan bread can help you feel your oats
Q. Several years ago I copied a recipe out of a magazine for something called Herbed Oatmeal Pan Bread, but I’ve lost it. I’d be grateful if you could print something similar. — Greta Hansen, Fort Lauderdale
A. Back in the early ’90s I acquired a copy of the Pillsbury Complete Book of Baking (Viking Penguin, 1993). I have enjoyed many good recipes from the book over the years. Herbed Oatmeal Pan Bread is among them; perhaps that is the one Hansen copied. Whatever the source, these rolls are a tasty way to get your oats.
Olive oil-butter mix has less cholesterol
Q. I recently had a butter spread that was a combination of butter and olive oil. Could you tell me how much of each would make a good combination? This sounds like such a good idea, as less butter and more olive oil would reduce some of the cholesterol, wouldn’t it? — Sandra Barston, Fort Lauderdale
A. An article in a newsletter from the Trade Commission of Spain promoting olive oil from Spain suggested mixing two parts softened butter with one part extra-virgin olive oil (1/2 cup butter and 1/4 cup olive oil, to be specific). Refrigerate it and bring it to room temperature before serving. This assures perfect spreading consistency. To quote the newsletter, the combination “reduces cholesterol and saturated fat when used as a substitute for butter and contains none of the potentially harmful hydrogenated oils found in most margarine.”
DRESSING
CALYPSO CITRUS GINGER DRESSING
MAKE THIS A FEW HOURS AHEAD SO THE FLAVORS MINGLE WELL. IF YOU HAVE ADDED THE OIL SLOWLY, AS DIRECTED, THE EMULSION WILL BE VERY STABLE AND KEEP REFRIGERATED FOR A WEEK.
2 1/2 ounces ginger root, peeled and roughly chopped (2 pieces of fresh ginger about 2 1/2 inches long and 1 1/4 inches in diameter)
5 medium garlic cloves
2/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons paprika
1 3/4 cups vegetable oil
In a good blender or a food processor fitted with the metal blade, puree or process ginger, garlic and sugar until smooth. Add lemon juice, wine, salt and paprika; puree or process again. With motor running, slowly pour oil through feed tube or lid as you would if making mayonnaise. If mixture begins to turn oily, stop adding oil. (Amount of oil listed here should be just right for the other ingredients, but as we all know, there is always a margin of mismeasuring in every recipe.) Makes about 2 2/3 cups.
Per (1-tablespoon) serving: 82 calories, 86 percent calories from fat, .06 gram protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, .06 gram total fiber, 8 grams total fat, no cholesterol, 70 milligrams sodium.
SIDE DISH
GARLIC FRIES
A METAL FRY BASKET OR STRAINER AND AN ELECTRIC FRY-POT ARE NOT NECESSARY, ALTHOUGH THEY DO MAKE IT EASIER TO COOK THESE FRIES. THE GARLIC SEASONING* CAN BE STORED IN A WELL-SEALED CONTAINER AND REFRIGERATED FOR SEVERAL MONTHS OR EVEN UP TO A YEAR.
2 pounds russet baking potatoes (about 3 medium), peeled
Vegetable oil, for frying (we like peanut oil)
2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped, optional
2 teaspoons Garlic Seasoning*
Cut potatoes into strips no thicker than 3/8 inch (length is up to you). Fill a deep, heavy saucepan with 2 1/2 to 3 inches oil. (Make sure you have enough room in pot so when potatoes cause oil to bubble up, oil will not bubble over.) If using a deep fryer, follow manufacturer’s directions. Preheat oil to 325 degrees.
Lower a fry basket or strainer filled with a single layer of potatoes into hot oil. Cook about 2 minutes or until all sputtering stops but potatoes are still somewhat limp. Transfer to absorbent paper to drain while you fry remaining potatoes. When all are fried, let cool and drain without covering them until just before ready to serve. If serving immediately, let cool at least 10 minutes.
Just before serving, reheat oil to 375 degrees. Here it is a good idea to have a fry basket so you can remove potatoes quickly as they brown. Immerse partially cooked potatoes in hot oil about 3 minutes more, or until golden brown and crisp. Remove to absorbent paper to drain briefly.
In a large bowl, toss potatoes with fresh garlic, if using (this does give them an extra jolt of garlic), and Garlic Seasoning. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.
Per serving: 195 calories, 42 percent calories from fat, 3 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams total fiber, 9 grams total fat, no cholesterol, 382 milligrams sodium.
*Garlic Seasoning: Combine 11/2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper, 11/2 teaspoons coarse-ground garlic powder (we like Lawry’s Coarse Ground with Parsley), 1/2 teaspoon crushed dried thyme and 1/2 teaspoon crushed dried rosemary in a small mixing bowl. It’s best to crush the spices in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Store refrigerated in a small well-sealed container. Makes about 2 1/2 tablespoons.
Per (1-teaspoon) serving: 3 calories, no calories from fat, .14 gram protein, .71 gram carbohydrates, .22 gram total fiber, no fat, no cholesterol, 1,129 milligrams sodium.
SIDE DISH
SUMMER SQUASH CASSEROLE
Squash Casserole:
1 3/4 to 2 pounds summer squash (zucchini and yellow)
1 medium onion, diced
1 large bay leaf, broken in half
Water
Seasoning Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh-chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon seasoned salt
Dash cayenne pepper
2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/4 cup grated Swiss or gruyere cheese
Buttered Crumb Topping:
1/3 cup Ritz (or other flavorful cracker) cracker crumbs
1 tablespoon melted butter
To make casserole: Trim ends of squash, cut lengthwise and remove seeds with a melon baller. Cut squash into 3/8- to 1/2-inch dice. In a large saucepan, add squash, onions, bay leaf and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 5 minutes. Drain mixture well in a colander and remove bay leaf. Continue to drain while making sauce.
To make sauce: In same saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Stir in flour and let it bubble 1 minute. Slowly whisk in milk and continue whisking (or stirring) until mixture thickens.
Stir in Worcestershire sauce, Italian seasoning, parsley, salt and cayenne pepper. In a small bowl, slowly whisk about 1/4 cup of sauce into egg yolks. Then stir yolk mixture back into remaining sauce. Stir in cheese. When melted, fold in drained squash. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter a 10-by-7-by-2-inch baking dish. Spread squash mixture into dish.
To make topping: Mix all ingredients together and sprinkle on top of casserole. Bake in center of oven 30 minutes, or until bubbly and top is golden. Makes 6 servings.
Per serving: 179 calories, 56 percent calories from fat, 6 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams total fiber, 11 grams total fat, 97 milligrams cholesterol, 198 milligrams sodium.
BREAD
HERBED OATMEAL PAN BREAD
Bread Dough:
1 1/2 cups boiling water plus 1/2 cup warm water (110 to 115 degrees)
1 cup oatmeal, quick or regular is fine
2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast
1/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter, softened
2 teaspoons salt
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 to 4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
Cheese Topping:
6 tablespoons melted butter, divided
2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
To make dough: In a small bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups boiling water and oats. Cool to about 115 degrees.
In a large bowl, dissolve yeast in 1/2 cup warm water. Add sugar, butter, salt, egg, cooled oat mixture and 2 cups flour. Beat until smooth. Add enough remaining flour to form a soft dough.
Turn onto a floured surface and knead about 6 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Shape dough into a ball and cover with a large bowl. Let rest 30 minutes.
Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Punch dough down and press evenly into greased pan. Using a sharp knife, cut diagonal lines about 11/2 inches apart completely through dough. Repeat in opposite direction, making a diamond pattern. Cover and let rise about 45 minutes, or until doubled in bulk.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Redefine cuts by poking along cut lines with knife tip. Don’t pull knife through or you will deflate dough.
Have a cooking question? Need some nutrition advice? Trying to track down a long-lost recipe? Send your questions (be sure to include phone number) to You Asked for It, Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293. No personal replies.
