At the end of an evening at Gianni’s, two men we think to be owner and chef are conferring about the next day’s supplies. One of them makes a phone call, ordering fresh produce and seafood for what will surely be a busy Friday.
That this exchange takes place in view of the remaining diners says volumes about Gianni’s. There are no secrets in a restaurant that deals in quality and consistency.
It’s a friendly neighborhood gem with lots of free parking for auto-obsessed South Floridians. So what if the plants are dusty, the decor in need of a quiet spruce-up. It’s the kind of place where regulars no doubt have their favorite dishes, tables and waitresses.
At the end of our meal, my friend said: “If this was in my neighborhood, I’d be here every week.”
We start with a trio of appetizers, one of which I’m hesitant about. But even the baked clams oreganto ($6.95) are good.
Too often, baked clams taste like they’ve been flash-frozen and shipped. Not these. The clams are obviously fresh. The breadcrumbs aren’t soggy. I can understand their appeal.
Eggplant rollatini ($5.95) hits the proportion of eggplant to cheese and marinara sauce just right. The mound of tender fried calamari ($7.95) would be a perfect dinner with one of Gianni’s house salads, hearts of romaine with a pleasant vinaigrette.
Every meal also comes with a crowd-pleasing basket of warm garlic rolls.
None of the entrees hits $20. Pasta tops out at $13.95 for penne with broccoli rabe. Chicken and veal hover around $16.
Tri-combo parmigiana ($17.95) is perfect if you want to sample lots from Gianni’s kitchen. It’s one slice each of eggplant, chicken and veal parmesan stacked on top of each other. One is as good as the other. They haven’t let the cheese take over, and the marinara sauce is fresh and brilliant red.
Chicken Gianni ($18.95), a special one night we dined here, is worth a trip when it’s being served.
Boneless chicken breasts are pounded thin, dredged in flour, filled with a mixture of mozzarella, spinach and zucchini and sauteed. The result is a strange-looking chicken ball that’s served with a marsala marinara.
I can’t say enough about how Gianni’s doesn’t overload any of its dishes with layer after layer of cheese. Each ingredient gets to speak for itself.
Another special, classic osso buco ($18.95) is served simply over a plate of pasta. The veal shank has been braised to fall-off-the-bone tenderness.
While few of the desserts are made in house, share a slice of tiramisu ($3.95). Unlike so many tasted, Gianni’s isn’t a bowl of boozy mush. The ladyfingers still have shape. The proportions of mascarpone, cream, coffee and chocolate are perfect.
Gianni’s isn’t new, but the reason for its endurance is obvious. There are few surprises on the menu, just classic Italian-American at its best.
L.B. Levitan is a pseudonym to protect our dining critic’s anonymity. Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities. For restaurant review consideration, please fax a current menu to 954-356-4386.
