Who cares if all the trendy American chefs worth their guacamole swear by California avocados?
Not Robert Rock. He’d take one of the shiny emerald green fruits from his Dania back yard any day over the purple-black pebbly-skinned Hass variety from California.
“They (Florida avocados) are less fattening, and I like getting the bigger slices,” says Rock, the president of the Rare Fruit and Vegetable Council of Broward County. “There’s more meat, less waste. And I do not detect a flavor difference. I think most people who say they don’t like Florida avocados don’t let them ripen long enough.”
But many food connoisseurs turn up their noses for another reason: the Florida varieties contain less oil, and therefore lack the rich, nutty taste and buttery texture of a California avocado.
“You could say Florida avocados are more watery,” concedes Bill Schaefer, marketing director for J.R. Brooks & Son, Inc., a Homestead grower. “But in the same breath, you’d also have to say they’re lower in calories.”
That’s why a thin layer of water may form on the top of guacamole made with Florida avocados. People who like them, however, “don’t care — they just pour it off,” Schaefer says.
“It gets to be a big finger-pointing contest,” he adds. “But I think the whole argument of one avocado being better than the other is not a correct attitude. They’re both good. We just like to be able to offer shoppers another option.”
Last year, California produced nearly 9 1/2 million bushels of avocados — outnumbering Florida avocados about 9 to 1. This year, however, that ratio is expected to be about 6 to 1, due to both a projected increase in Florida’s production, and a slight decrease in California’s.
In the past, Florida avocados haven’t been big profit-makers, Schaefer says. But both Florida and California growers are hoping to cash in on a large demand for them overseas because of an exceptionally poor yield in Israel, a major supplier of avocados in Europe.
“That translates into a slightly higher price in Florida,” Schaefer says. Currently, prices are considerably cheaper for Florida avocados; 69 cents for one 16-ounce fruit, as opposed to 89 cents to $1.29 for an 8-ounce Hass.
All avocados are low in sodium, cholesterol-free and pack in plenty of nutrients: ample amounts of vitamins A, C and E, as well as twice the amount of potassium in a banana.
The biggest difference, nutritionally speaking, is in terms of calories: a 100-gram serving (about cup) of a California avocado has about 177; the equivalent amount of a Florida avocado has about 112. A California avocado is higher in fat and protein; a Florida avocado is slightly higher in carbohydrate.
California avocados are fattier, “because they hang on the tree longer and develop a higher level of maturity, which is measured by the oil of the fruit,” Schaefer explains. “Our fruit, on the other hand, thinks about falling off the tree the minute it hits maturity.”
The first avocados of the Florida season, which began a few weeks ago and will extend through early March, are just beginning to appear in local markets. California avocados are produced year-round, although some markets may not carry them when Florida varieties are in season.
But the tropical fruits almost never turn up in restaurants, primarily because they’re not as consistent as the West Coast products — particularly the Hass, distinguishable by its thick, nubby skin which changes to black as it ripens.
Aside from the Hass, which is available April through November, there are only a handful of other commercial California varieties. The pear-shaped winter Fuerte, and the oval Bacon and Zutano, available in the autumn and winter, are the best known. All are smooth-skinned and milder in flavor than the Hass.
In Florida, however, there are more than 25 varieties, ranging widely in size, shape and color — from an 8-ounce Booth 5 to a 60-ounce Choquette. For the next few weeks, some supermarkets will be carrying a fairly new variety called the Hardee, whose skin turns from green to bright red as it ripens.
“It’s like it has its own built-in flag that says, ‘Hey, I’m ready to eat right now,”‘ Schaefer says. It’s a bit trickier to determine the ripeness of the others, which remain green.
“There is a subtle difference in the sheen; they tend to dull just a little bit as they ripen,” he says. But the real test is to cradle it in your palm to see if it has begun to soften.
“There should be a slight response to a gentle squeeze. You can also shake it; if you hear the seed rattle, it’s probably ripe.”
Unfortunately, it’s often difficult to find a Florida avocado in the produce bin that isn’t at least a day or two away from being fully ripe — a problem if you’re craving guacamole tonight. California producers, however, have found a way around that: They pre-ripen them before they get to the store.
“We’ve been more hesitant to do that with Florida avocados because they have a shorter shelf life,” Schaefer says.
He adds, however, that Natural Pack, a company in Bradenton, may have the answer. For several years it has been marketing the “Tom-ah-to” — a pre- ripened tomato packaged with a holding agent which absorbs ethylene from the atmosphere so that it holds its level of ripeness. Now it’s applying the same technique to other produce, and it’s likely that the “Avoc-ah-do” will make its debut before the year is out.
At its peak of ripeness, any avocado can be an asset to a meal. Its mild flavor and creamy texture make it a perfect partner to a wealth of other ingredients — sweet or savory, mild or spicy, delicate or robust.
Robert Rock likes to throw his avocado slices into just about any salad, or mash them up for Mexican guacamole. But that’s only the beginning. You can spread mashed avocado on a BLT, tuck slices of it into an omelet, puree the flesh into a velvety cold soup, add avocado balls to a tomato aspic, mix chunks of it in a creamy sauce for sauteed chicken.
Or, you could try one of Schaefer’s favorite uses for them: “I like to mash up extremely ripe chunks of avocado and put them in a baked potato — in place of butter.”
About the only thing he likes better, he says, is to cut one in half, squeeze it with lime juice and sprinkle on just a touch of pepper. “That way, I can get the pure flavor.”
Here are some other ideas:
AVOCADO FRITTATA
1/2 pound extra lean ground beef
1 cup chopped mushrooms
1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions
1/4 cup lightly packed, finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon crushed leaf oregano
6 large eggs
1 medium ripe avocado
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
In a broiler-proof 10-inch fry pan, saute ground beef, breaking it up into small chunks with a wooden spoon. Add mushrooms, green onion, parsley and oregano and continue cooking until beef is crumbly and cooked through and mushrooms are translucent. Remove from heat and pour off any excess fat.
Beat eggs in medium bowl; stir slightly cooled hamburger mixture into eggs. Return fry pan to heat. When fry pan is almost smoking, pour egg mixture into pan and reduce heat to medium low. Preheat broiler. Halve, seed, peel and slice avocado lengthwise. When egg mixture is set around edges, arrange avocado slices like spokes in a wheel over surface of egg mixture. When eggs are almost set, sprinkle Parmesan cheese evenly over surface and place skillet under broiler for a few seconds to brown cheese lightly. Cut frittata in quarters and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.
AVOCADO SESAME TOAST
1 slice whole-grain bread
1/2 medium ripe avocado
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Dash salt (or garlic salt)
Toast bread. Seed, peel and mash avocado; spread on toast and sprinkle with sesame seed and salt. Makes 1 serving.
Southwest cooking authority Jane Butel recommends Hass avocados for this festive, layered dip in her book Fiesta! (Harper & Row). But we had excellent results with Florida avocados.
TEX-MEX TORTE
2 tablespoons lard or bacon drippings
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons minced Spanish onion
2 cups cooked pinto beans, or 1 can (16 ounces)
Guacamole, recipe follows
1 cup sour cream
Juice of 1 lime (or to taste)
1 medium ripe tomato, coarsely chopped
2 fresh or pickled jalapenos, stemmed, seeded, and very finely chopped
1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese
12 blue or white corn tortillas or a combination, quartered and crisply fried
Melt the lard in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic, and as soon as it starts to turn golden, add the onion. When the onion begins to soften, add the pinto beans. Mash and stir, using a potato masher and a large heavy wooden spoon to completely mash the beans as they fry. When thick, remove from heat.
Make guacamole (recipe follows). Combine the sour cream with lime juice to taste. Using a Mexican or pottery casserole, place the refried beans in the bottom. Place guacamole mixture 1 inch inside the beans so the beans show all the way around. Indenting another inch, place a generous circle of the lime- flavored sour cream.
Top with the coarsely grated cheese, chopped tomato, and the jalapenos. Serve with a basket of freshly fried or warmed, fried tortillas.
Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings.
GUACAMOLE
2 large Haas avocados (those with black nubby skins), or 1 large Florida avocado
1/4 cup chopped ripe tomato
1/4 cup chopped Spanish onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped jalapeno
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon or more freshly squeezed lime juice
Salt to taste
Halve and scoop out flesh from the avocados. Combine with tomato, onion, jalapeno, garlic, lime juice and salt. Use a fork and knife to cut the avocados coarsely; do not mash fine or use a food processor or blender. When ingredients are well mixed, but not overly mixed, taste and adjust flavors. Set aside.
SEVICHE WITH TOMATO AND AVOCADO
1 cup fresh lime juice (juice of 6 to 8 limes)
1/4 cup tomato juice
1 large clove garlic, finely minced
1 pound very fresh halibut or other white-fleshed fish, cubed
1/2 pound very fresh bay scallops
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
2 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and cubed
2 medium ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and cubed
3 tablespoons chopped coriander or parsley
In a non-metallic bowl, combine lime juice, tomato juice, garlic, halibut, scallops, olive oil, dried oregano and red pepper flakes. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours, or overnight. (Fish will lose its transparency and become opaque when “cooked.”) One hour before serving, add onion, tomatoes and avocado. Sprinkle with coriander or parsley. Serve in chilled bowls or on lettuce-lined plates. Makes 8 appetizers, or 4 main-dish servings.
SPINACH, GRAPEFRUIT AND AVOCADO SALAD
Dressing:
1/2 cup grapefruit juice
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon grated onion
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 tablespoons poppy seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Salad:
1/2 pound spinach leaves, washed and patted dry
2 grapefruits, peeled, membrane removed and sectioned
2 medium avocados, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium red onion, sliced thin
In a small bowl, whisk together all dressing ingredients. Chill until ready to use. At serving time, place all salad ingredients in a bowl. Toss with just enough dressing to coat leaves. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
CHICKEN, AVOCADO AND OLIVE SAUTE
2 tablespoons butter
6 chicken breast halves, boned and skinned
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons dry vermouth
1/2 teaspoon cumin
Few dashes hot pepper sauce
2 medium avocados, seeded, peeled and cut into chunks (squeezed with lemon or lime juice to prevent browning)
3/4 cup sliced black olives
In a heavy 10-inch skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Lightly sprinkle chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Add chicken breasts and saute 4 to 5 minutes per side, or until firm and cooked through. Remove from skillet; keep warm. Add cream and vermouth to skillet; heat until sauce bubbles. Stir in cumin and hot pepper sauce. Simmer, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Stir in avocados and olives. Arrange chicken pieces on serving platter; spoon sauce over. Makes 6 servings.
Avocados and roasted red peppers add a colorful, contemporary twist to this familiar standby.
COLE SLAW
1 large sweet pepper (or a bottled roasted red pepper, peeled and diced)
2 medium avocados, peeled, pitted and mashed
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice
4 cups coarsely chopped cabbage
cup coarsely chopped green onion (with some of the green top)
6 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (red wine vinegar may be substituted)
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Roast the pepper, if using fresh: Preheat broiler. Place pepper on piece of foil under flame and roast until completely blackened, turning often with tongs. Place blackened pepper in a brown paper bag and fold top shut to allow it to “sweat.” When cool, peel, seed and dice it. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix avocado and lemon juice thoroughly. Add cabbage and green onions and mix. Combine with red pepper. Make a dressing by whisking together mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, salt, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. Stir into cabbage mixture. Toss before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
(Recipe adapted from Lee Bailey’s Good Parties, Clarkson N. Potter, Inc.)
Avocado ice cream? It’s not as strange as it sounds. This version has a beautiful pale green color and remarkably creamy texture (especially if California Hass avocados are used), with the juice and grated rind of an orange to offset the richness. A drizzle of vodka or tequila elevated it to the sublime.
AVOCADO ICE CREAM
2 eggs, separated
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cups light cream
2 medium, very ripe avocados
Juice and finely grated peel of 1 large orange
1/4 cups heavy cream, whipped
In a bowl, beat egg yolks with sugar until thick. In a heavy medium saucepan, heat light cream to just below simmering point. Beat a little of the cream into egg yolks, then add egg yolk mixture to pan. Cook and stir over low heat until thick enough to coat a metal spoon. Set aside to cool, stirring occasionally.
Remove flesh from avocados. In blender or food processor, puree with orange zest and juice and put in a bowl. Beat in the cooled custard and fold in the whipped cream. Spoon into a container, cover and freeze until almost firm. Beat well in a bowl. Whip egg whites until stiff but not dry and fold into avocado mixture. Spoon mixture back into container. Cover and freeze until firm. About 30 minutes before serving, transfer ice cream to refrigerator. Makes 10 to 12 servings.
These recipes have been kitchen-tested.
